HITCHHIKING IN FRANCE (TRAVEL EXPERIENCE)

This is the summary of a trip around France, hitchhiking all the time (or almost), based on the notes taken in my travel diary, which aims to help other travelers providing information, thoughts and useful conclusions.

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Hitchhiking In France (Travel Experience)

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During the months of May and June 2009 I did an adventure trip in France, with a budget of 450 euros, always hitchhiking (or almost), sleeping in my sleeping bag on the street outside, almost always eating from the supermarket, for a total of 24 days. This aims to be the summary of this journey, day by day, based on notes taken in my travel diary, with the purpose to help other travelers providing useful information, thoughts and conclusions.
The only place where I absolutely wanted to get was Carcassonne, since I am really interested in medieval history the medieval castle destroyed and rebuilt in the nineteenth century to me was very important.
Before this trip I did other similar trips, hitchhiking, but I never slept outside on the street, and I admit that before starting I was pretty scared, mostly focused on what the very first night would have been like, but years ago somebody told me: Claudius, to become stronger you must face your fears and "kill your monsters", so I decided to put this advice into practice; sometimes we are so afraid of failing doing something that we give up even before starting, and these are the moments when we are the biggest enemy of ourselves, and as someone said, the greatest battles are those that we fight against ourselves. For the rest, just as other times, I left home open to new opportunities that might arise, without a strict route.

May 14th, 2009
I arrived at Chamonix in France by bus from Courmayeur, because the cable car over Mont Blanc was closed - my intention was to get in France by cable car from La Palud, but once arrived at Courmayeur, I discovered that the cable car over the Mont Blanc, due to strong winds, it is open only for about a

Map Of The Trip Around France

month or two during the summer. The

price for the bus Courmayeur-Chamonix was 12 euros.
Train prices in France, compared to Italy, are about four times more expensive - for example if in Italy for 100 km you pay about 8 euros, in France you pay about 35 euros. Given these prices was obvious to me that I could not afford the train.
At this point, I started to hitchhike; looking on the map, the next big city to continue to south-west was Grenoble. I went to the south exit of Chamonix on the national road and I put my thumb up. Not even a minute passes and a car stops and I get in.
This is the first ride I got after not even 1 minute waiting: Chamonix-Clues:)
The driver, that was more or less as old as me, was returning home from work - it was around 7 o'clock in the evening. I discovered that he was a hitchhiker aswell and he was returning the favor; after we talked a bit and I told him the purpose of my trip (to get to Carcassonne and stay in France as much as possible) he invited me to his house to sleep. Since he seemed a friendly person, I accepted. He was living with his girlfriend and another person - he allowed me not only to sleep in his house but also to have a bath and invited me to have dinner with them as if I were a member of their family. Here I could also taste the local cheese of Savoia, that from what I remember has a very strong flavor.

May 15th, 2009
The next morning he gave me some information on how to best proceed hitchhiking in France and took me to the péage (fee station) of the highway heading south.
In France, as opposite of Italy, the highway symbol is marked on blue background, while the national road is marked on green background.
At the péage, I began using the sign with the destination: "LE SUD" (The South). I hitchhike: Clues-Chambery; the free ride I got it almost immediately.
After visiting Chambery I went to the south-east exit to the highway but it did not work - I waited for about an hour. Then I tried the south-east exit to the national road but even this did not work. After having taken me a whole day (I walked all time) to find the right location to hitchhike to leave the city, in the end I went to the north-west exit of the city to the highway. Here I finally found a free ride after about 25 minutes waiting: Chambery-Les Marches (peage). At the highway entry in Les Marches it was already 9 o'clock in the evening and I was lucky because the first person that passed by picked me up: Les Marches (péage)-Grenoble. Today two of the three drivers that picked me up were women.
Very beautiful, for those who love nature, is the landscape of the Isere region, just between Grenoble and Chambery. In Grenoble, I slept on the street in my sleeping bag near the Maisson De Turisme (Tourist Office).
Concerning sleeping on the street outside, I know there are two different opinions: some travelers say that it is better to stay far away from the eyes of the people and others say that it is better to sleep in the city center where lots of people walk by because this way if somebody wants to hurt you then it is less likely that will do it because there are the others that are watching - I agree with the second category: sleeping in places closer to the center of the city, where many people walk by, it is much safer. I noticed that the train stations are often the most dangerous places of a city, it is better to stay as far as possible and be very careful when you are nearby.

May 16th, 2009
I visit the city and taste the typical dessert of Grenoble: Noix de Grenoble.
I hitchhike at the exit of the city to the highway: Grenoble-Bourg Les Valence, waiting time 15 minutes.
I hitchhike Bourg Les Valence (commercial area)-Valence; waiting time 1 minute.
In Valence, in addition to visiting the city I also tasted the local cheese: Picodon - you can find it at the supermarket and costs only about 3.5 euros each piece.
I hitchhike at the city's exit to the highway: Valence-Montpellier; waiting time 5 minutes. The driver was a man about 40 years old that felt much younger inside, and while we were still on the road between Montpellier and Valence he looked on his iPhone to see if there was any party in Montpellier that evening and he invited me to go to a party with him. I gladly accepted, and since we arrived in Montpellier at 10 o'clock in the evening we went directly to the party. There, I met two girls that lived in Paris and they were in Montpellier only for few days; after talking for a while, the girls suggested that, if I wanted, I could go with them to Paris after few days when they were returning, but since I did not know how much time it would have taken me to get to Carcassonne we exchanged cell phone numbers to give them the confirmation in few days, telling them that it's very likely that I would go with them to Paris.
After the party, I went to the historic center of Montpellier where I slept on a bench in my sleeping bag.

May 17th, 2009
After visiting the old town center I went to the south exit to the highway to hitchhike: Montpellier-Carcassonne; waiting time, 10 minutes.
Arrived in Carcassonne, I visited the wonderful reconstruction of the Templar castle and I have tasted the typical dish, Cassoulet, and typical wine Plo Notre Dame (rosé) in the restaurant which is located just immediately on the right after the main entrance of the castle at about 50 meters; the Cassoulet costs 14 euros, slightly more than the price in town, but considering the fact that it is prepared on time and the owner is a really nice person it's worth it - I recommend it to all. Here at the restaurant I met a person who was traveling more or less like me that suggested me a pro bono organization for travelers with low budget: www.hospitalityclub.org.
In the late evening, walking around the castle in search of a place to sleep outside, a man from Germany of about 35 years old passes by and suddenly says in a grammatically incorrect english and with strong northern european accent "Are you looking for a place to sleep? Come with me." - at first glance he did not seem pretty trustable but around us was full of people sitting at the tables of the bars and pubs within castle's walls enjoying the evening in peace and I thought it could not happen anything wrong in a crowded area so I decided to follow him for a while. Shortly after we arrived at the place where he was staying. At the reception, he told me that he was gay and that if I wanted I could share the room with him (also in sexual terms). The receptionist was gay aswell:) But I am not:D so I felt it was the right time to make it clear to everybody, being careful not to offend any of the two, especially the german tourist, so I said "I am not gay, I am definitely straight, but I thank you for your generosity - I have slept on the street so far, and certainly I will not have trouble finding a place also today:)" to which he replied saying that today is his birthday and that he would be happy to pay half of the price for a single room for me anyway. I did not want to spend money for a room at all, so I replied "Look, you're really nice, but I cannot accept, I have nothing against gay people, I consider myself with open heart and mind so since it's your birthday I can accept to have a drink together and conversate but paying me half of the price of a room would be too much.". Then he invited his three other room mates, brought snacks and various drinks and we celebrated in the atrium of the structure. After the small party, the receptionist gave me free access to the internet, so I had a look at the site that was suggested to me by the person met at the restaurant and I signed up (for those travelers who wish to contact me on www.hospitalityclub.org, my nickname is "LongHaul"). Finally, the receptionist allowed me to sleep for free on the kitchen's floor of the building in my sleeping bag, agreeing that in the early morning I would have left before his manager arrived.

May 18th, 2009
In a bar within the walls of the castle of Carcassonne, around 8 o'clock in the morning (because I noticed that in almost every city that I have been to before 8 o'clock bars do not open), while I was having breakfast and meditating on the events occurred the day before, I understood the true essence of Karma for a traveler. What karma is actually? The karma is the way of being of a person mirrored in the others - basicly, the way you are this way will be the kind of people you will mostly attract to you. The good and the evil you do to others will be done to you; concerning the material things, what you give to others will be given to you in return equally measured but not necessarily in the same form. The karma is of two types: good or bad, and each of the two types can be built in time doing good things or bad things. Moreover, since is something that is part of our own essence of being, and so neverended, may be changed on the long run - those who initially build a good karma can lose it if they stop doing good things to balance any eventual bad things done, and who has a bad karma can make it less bad, and so better, starting doing good things, and even turn it into good karma on the long run. The quality of our own karma may be seen as two weights on a scale; from my point of view, for a traveler is good to have a good karma, to tilt the balance towards the good. Asking people for things (like a begger asks for money) contributes to the building of a bad karma, laughing and making fun of those in difficulty contributes to the building of a bad karma, etc...; doing good things, like helping people in need (but permiting people to take your kindness for stupidity) without demanding anything in return contributes to the building of a good karma. If you're a good person in the deep of your soul then it will come natural to meet good people who gladly will help you without demanding anything in return - the case will do most of the job, just allow it and let things happen to you without opposing. Viceversa, if you're a bad person then you attract bad people to you.
A great view of the castle of Carcassonne can be seen from the road that leads to the camping area of the city.
The day before, while I was tasting the cassoulet at the restaurant, the same person that suggested me www.hospitalityclub.org also suggested me to visit Beziers, after having discovered that I was passionated about medieval history, as also this city was of relevant importance due to the massacre of the population during the Crusade against the Albigensian in 1208 demanded by Pope Innocenzo III; since Beziers was located on my way back to Montpellier I decide to go there aswell.
I'm hitchhiking at the exit of the town to national road: Carcassonne-Beziers; waiting time, about 25 minutes.
I visit Beziers and particularly the church La Madaleine, which is the site of the bloody massacre.
I hitchhike at the exit of the city to the highway: Montpellier-Beziers; waiting time, about 45 minutes. From the center of the city was difficult to walk to the péage at the entry to the highway.
The driver was a young student at the University Of Montpellier - since I had never been before to the beach of Montpellier, Palavas, he has offered to take me there and to thank him and balance my karma in the same time, I offered him a drink and then we went to downtown Montpellier and showed me the young core of the city where the students usually gather for a drink; here he insisted to offer me a drink in return and I accepted - Montpellier is the young heart of southern France, as university city is full of students.
I slept on the street in my sleeping bag downtown St. Jean De Vedas - it is a very safe village.

May 19th, 2009
The girls from Paris met at the party few days ago seem to take it seriously, so I go with them to Paris.
Once in Paris, were both really nice and they called a friend of them that was an artist that allowed me to sleep in his studio at the association of artists in the abandoned building that once was a clinic. The two girls not only have found me a place to sleep but they have also given me food for free and allowed me to wash my hair in their bathroom - I really needed it.

May 20th, 2009
I visit the center of Paris and I walk to Porte de Bercy, one of the eastern city exits to highway, to hitchhike to Reims. I wanted to visit Reims, Rouen, Chartres and then return to Carcassonne to stay in that area of the Languedoc region for a while.
At Porte De Bercy I wait for about 90 minutes but nothing, the other exits are really too far to go there and try them and it's already 9 o'clock in the evening. I noticed that Paris is a too dangerous city to sleep outside on the street and it seems that I am trapped in the city. I look on the map and realize that Reims and Rouen are poorly connected in relation to the distance that separates them and investing in the train ticket for one of them would be a waste of money so I decided to give up to both of them and go directly to Chartres and then proceed to south. The train seems the only way to exit the city at this given situation. Being short of time I take the metro from Porte de Bercy to the center of Paris and I go to the nearest train station but it seems I am in the wrong one because there are no trains to Chartres from this one but only to some other destinations, and discover that in Paris there are several railway stations depending on the direction of the geographic area in which you want to go. While I was in one of the several railway stations, I look at the schedule of the trains to Chartres to see if I have time - the last train was departing in about 35 minutes. In a big rush I take the metro again to go to the right train station - a timed race, if I lose my train I would be trapped in Paris for the night. I exit the metro station and run to the departing trains timetable to find out the track. I still have about 10 minutes available to get into the train, but I do not have the ticket and around me all the ticket offices are closed and the automatic machines operate only with credit card that I did not have - I had only cash. Finally, I manage to find an opened information point where I find out that because of the late hour I can buy the ticket on the train without paying any additional tax on the ticket price. I rush to the track and I pass by a group of promoters that were distributing for free listings of hostels all around France - since I was running, a guy threw one at me and I instantly decided to keep it considering it as a source of amusement that I would have browsed once on the train. Arrived at the train's ticket controller he tells me to get on in the meantime because he would have come later on to sell me the ticket. I get on the train, and after about an hour I'm in Chartres - the ticket controller has never come to sell me the ticket and so from Paris to Chartres I moved for free, like hitchhiking.
Chartres is exactly as I thought: a small town and very safe to sleep outside.
Is it not mysterious all this? From Paris I cannot get out as hitchhiker and the destiny/fate or my karma still allows me to leave the city for free so that I can sleep in a safer place and continue the journey?
Arrived at the cathedral of Chartres, close to midnight, I was amazed by the lights projected on its facade accompanied by great music as background.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on a bench in front of the cathedral.

May 21st, 2009
Benches are not so good to sleep on - a lot better completely on the ground with the mattress and the sleeping bag over it using the backpack as pillow.
I visit the cathedral of Chartres, which together with Carcassonne, Beziers and Montpellier is an important step to discover the warrior monks. After the visit I also take part to the Mass with gregorian singing in the cathedral of Chartres - a really unique experience.
In front of the cathedral of Chartres, I met a traveler more or less like me and I give him for free my Campingaz cooker because until now I've never used it and since I noticed that I eat cold food from the supermarket most of the time I think it only makes me heavier.
I hitch hike on the national road: Chartres-Montargis.
In Montargis, looking for a good hitch hiking spot to proceed to Orleans, I get lost, ending up in the middle of the fields, and in the evening I fortunately get recovered by a local driver that takes me back to town center.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street in the town center of Montargis.

May 22nd, 2009
I take the bus Montargis-Orleans (2 euros).
Orleans: the city of Jean D'Arc; during the medieval period Orleans was small: a dozen houses and the cathedral. Today, of the medieval period it left only the Cathedral and nothing else, the rest is a modern city.
I hitchhike at the exit of the city to the highway: Orleans-Tours, waiting time to get the ride 15 minutes.
Tours was not really in my plans but walking around to find the right place to hitch hike I noticed that it is a nice old town; Tours, a medium size city, is as alive as Montpellier since it is also a university center.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street in the historic center of Tours.

May 23rd, 2009
Getting a free ride from Tours to the south is becoming a challenge.
I'm hitchhiking from Tours to Limoges (commercial centers area); waiting time: about 45 minutes. I'm hitchhiking from Limoges (commercial centers area) to Brive La Gaillarde; waiting time: about 20 minutes.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street near a church in Brive La Gaillarde (not downtown).

May 24th, 2009
I hitchhike at the city exit to the highway: Brive La Gaillarde-Cahors (north péage). I am going south and I am at the north exit of the city - definitely in the wrong place, the peage is about 14 km far from the city.
Given the situation I decided to try hitchhiking towards south even if I was at the north peage, but after about 1 hour that I was there and still nobody was going south then I decide to walk for 14 kilometers to downtown.
On the road to downtown I find a bar where I taste the local wine of Cahors, Malbec De Legende, and since I really needed to have a good bath and wash my clothes I choose to look on the list of hostels that happened to get into my hands in Paris and decided to keep in my backpack; I notice that in Cahors there is a hostel with 13 euros per night and I decide to go there. Now I understand why the road has led me to Cahors - when you need something the fate or your karma (if you have a good one) helps you reach your goal.
I sleep in the hostel. I noticed that many hostels are quite full and it is best to book a bed few days in advance with a phone call; I was lucky, I must have a good karma:)

May 25th, 2009
In my hostel's room I met a man about 60 years old that was going by bicycle from Germany to Portugal; we talked of many things and like all real travelers was very open and wise.
When this man went away he left me 10 euros near my things but I could not thank him because I was in another room. This event reminds me of a few days ago when, at Chartres, I gave for free my Campingaz burner to a traveler that was in need - I did a good thing and now a good thing happened to me.
I realize that what really counts is not walking around to see a city you've never been to before or visiting its museums to know perfectly its history, but it is the people you meet because talking with them and listening to what they say about the culture of where they live and what they have learned from living up to that point of their life you become richer inside, this is one of the great values of the trip: the inner richness that you get as you proceed.
I hitchhike at the exit of the city to the highway: Cahors-Toulouse; waiting time for the free ride: about 10 minutes.
For those who love nature, the landscape between Cahors and Toulouse is very beautiful.
I visit the historic center of Toulouse - also known as the pink city - and I try to get to Carcassonne within the end of the day. Since also Toulouse is quite large, and given the previous experience concerning Paris, here I decide to take the metro.
I hitch hike close to city's exit to highway: Toulouse-Carcassonne; waiting time, 10 minutes.
I want to explore for few days the area south of Carcassonne before returning to Italy.
I hitchhike on the national road: Carcassonne-Limoux. The driver was a young guy who was returning from work and because it was evening, he says that if I want I can sleep at his place and adds that he makes intensive use of drugs but if this is not a problem to me then I can go. I understand that even if he was taking drugs he was a good person inside.
It is strange how, when traveling like this, you develop a sort of sixth sense that permits you to understand almost at first sight who you can trust and who you cannot, and you become aware of having it but it's good not to consider yourself wise or thinking that you are better than people around you because every time you'll do it mother nature will prove that you are wrong; however, attention must be always payed to what surrounds you.
I do not take drugs of any kind and I don't even smoke and I've been very clear about this with him since we met, then I thought that it would be a good opportunity for me to better understand this category of people that, usually who is commonly called "normal" and never take risks try to avoid them maybe because it's a lot easier for these commonly called "normal people" to ignore them instead of trying to understand them and eventually help them; I decide to accept his invitation, being aware of taking a minimum risk. Now just popped in my mind a phrase of Michael Jackson, whose music I have always loved: some of us do not want to ever take risks and they take life as it is, while others choose to live a wild life.
Once at his home he has been very kind and respectful towards me, told me how he got to the point of being addicted to drugs, feeling the need to take drugs everyday and wanting to stop but being unable to do so, and when he was about to inject the daily dose he wanted to protect me somehow suggesting me to go to another room but I decided to stay and watch, because until that moment this kind of thing I had seen it only in the movies. It's different to see lively certain things - it makes you more aware.

May 26th, 2009
The same person who, in Carcassonne, suggested me the pro bono organization for travelers with low budget and visiting Beziers, also showed me a postcard with a small village here in the area named Cucugnan. I want to go there.
I hitch hike: Limoux-Quillan-Cucugnan.
Who took me from Quillan to Cucugnan were two guys, a norwegian boy and a canadian girl (also them have been hitchhikers in the past), that offered to take me directly to Cucugnan; to thank them, once in Cucugnan I offered them a glass of local wine of the Corbieres: Corbiere Rouge. They shared a travel experience telling me that exactly where they found me, last year a driver had stolen their backpacks with all documents, money and stuff leaving them completely empty.
In fact, when hitchhiking with the backpack and sleeping in a sleeping bag on the street using the backpack as pillow, as a rule to follow it is good to keep the documents and money always on the body scattered in various places and always be ready to lose the backpack. When sleeping in a sleeping bag it is best to put in the bag also the boots, just to avoid finding yourself shoesless in the morning - if anyone is willing to steal your backpack may also want to steal your boots if they are left outside the sleeping bag.
Near Cucugnan, on top of a mountain about 750 meters there are the ruins of one of the many castles of the Cathars located in the Aude: Chateau De Quéribus. By what people I have talked to think about the Cathars, I noticed that even today, lots of them that live in the Aude are supporters of the Cathars.
I'm hitchhiking from Cucugnan to Maury. Here, in Maury, someone suggested me that in Villefranche De Conflent there is a nice fortress so I decide to go there.
In the area, buses to and from Perpignan cost only 1 euro and so I decide to take the bus because given this price I think that hitchhiking it would be like taking advantage of people's kindness and this would be bad for my karma.
Bus Maury-Perpignan-Villefranche De Conflent (2 euros).
South of Perpignan it's noticeable how castles' architecture changes. Next destination: Perpignan and Collioure.
I hitch hike from Villefranche De Conflent to Ille Sur Tet.
Concerning hitchhiking: on the national roads, people drives for short distances so if you want to get to a place which is farther it's better to use the "thumb up" and go from village to village, rather than wait for a driver that goes far away because it might take too long to find it; the highway is very good for long distances (50 km minimum) and here it is better to use a sign with your destination written.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street in Ille Sur Tet.

May 27th, 2009
I hitchhike from Ille Sur Tet to Perpignan and then I take the bus from Perpignan to Collioure (1 euro).
Collioure is a small city on the sea full of tourists who have come here to enjoy the beautiful beach - almost too crowded for my tastes.
Life is beautiful but also strange once in a while; sometimes it is like a sort of signals are sent to us and it's up to us to catch them or not or to try to understand them.
I take the bus from Collioure to Perpignan (1 euro).
I want to find an honest way to make money to travel for longer time, months and years following; I believe that learning juggling or do magic tricks to entertain the people would be a good thing. I decide to buy the juggling balls to learn to juggle but it's quite hard to find them and as a matter of fact I look for the balls all around Perpignan for about 3 hours and, just before taking the bus to return to the area of Carcassonne, I find them in a place where I least expected.
I take the bus from Perpignan to Quillan (1 euro) and then I hitchhike from Quillan to Couiza.
I arrived in Couiza around 8.30 in the evening. I want to eat some french fries, so I try to buy them from the restaurants and bars open there but the answer is everywhere the same: "Usually we have french fries, but not today." - almost as if they had an agreement on not selling french fries. Then someone tells me that in the nearby village, Esperaza, which is 3.5 km far from Couiza, maybe I can find them.
It's almost dark, but I decide to go get the chips and then return to Couiza to sleep. The road between the two villages is not illuminated by any pole lights and can be a bit scary by night.
Once arrived in Esperaza, after I looked for french fries in various restaurants, in the end I found them. At this point I need to get back to Couiza and outside it's completely dark; luckily I have a led flashlight powerful enough in my backpack so I turn it on and in spite of my fear that there could be any wild beast coming out from the forest along the road between the two villages, I dive into the darkness of the night and proceed. After about 40 minutes I'm finally back to Couiza and I look for a place to sleep.
Thinking about the whole french fries thing, there is a lesson in all this: I managed to find the french fries because I was determined in my research - the determination that a person has when intends to reach a goal is very influential on the results.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street near the post office of Couiza.

May 28th, 2009
In France, the typical breakfast is the same as in Italy: coffee or orange juice and croissant. Most of the days I had breakfast in bars because the majority have toilets that allow not only to brush your teeth and shave but sometimes are so large that you can quickly wash a t-shirt or a pair of socks or pants. Some quick clothes washing can be done also in the large shopping centers such as Carrefour or Auchan because they have very large and multiple toilets.
I'm hitchhiking: Couiza-Arques-Laroque De Fa-Crossroad D106/D611-Fontcouverte-Crossroad D111/D6113-RN Carcassonne; six rides, totally. I took this road because I wanted to stop in a small village called Villerouge Termenès but then I changed my mind.
On national roads (RN), also hitch hiking far from cities/villages works perfectly so the myth which states the opposite (as it may be weird to see someone trying to stop cars in the middle of nowhere) is not fully valid in France.
Who took me from Arques to Laroque De Fa was a farmer specialized in cheese, so to thank him for the ride and balance my karma I bought from him a little piece of cheese and then he offered me for free another one bigger and tastier, the Pélardon, typical cheese of Languedoc, produced by himself.
I taste the local wine of Carcassonne, Plo De Notre Dame (rouge), in the same restaurant as the first time.
Before returning to Italy I want to visit two more places - two abbeys: St. Hilaire and Fontfroide.
I hitchhike: Carcassonne-Pomas. From Pomas I walk to St. Hilaire (8 km).
The inner courtyard of St. Hilaire is always open to the public - when I arrived it was about 8.30 in the evening and everything was so quiet, so I entered the courtyard of the abbey - there was nobody there, so I was all alone - and I just stayed there for about 20 minutes to listen to and enjoy the sound of the absolute silence and stillness so pure that I had never found so far. It worth to come here.
In a small tavern near the abbey, I tasted the local wine of Limoux, the Blanquette. Someone suggested me to visit also the Abbey of Lagrasse, before going to Fontfroide.
It is not useful to buy a map of a specific area of the country before arriving on site - is enough to have a map of the entire country.
I sleep on the street in my sleeping bag near the school in St. Hilaire.

May 29th, 2009
I hitchhike from St. Hilaire to Carcassonne, then I walk from Carcassonne to Trebes (6 km), and from Trebes I hitchhike again to Lagrasse.
I have breakfast in a bar in the small and ancient village of Lagrasse.
I'm hitchhiking: Lagrasse-St. Laurent-Fontfroide.
To get to the abbey of Fontfroide - situated between the hills - from the national road, you need to take a small path for about 2.5 km.
At the abbey of Fontfroide I taste the typical wine of the Corbières.
I'm hitchhiking from Fontfroide to Narbonne.
I'm visiting the ancient city on the Via Domitia and in the evening, before looking for a place to sleep, I'm going to a pub for a drink where I meet a young anglo-american writer. Among other things he tells me that he is going to live in Séte for a while.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street near the historic center of Narbonne.

May 30th, 2009
Since Séte is located more or less on my way back to Italy I decided to stop there aswell, before getting to Nimes.
Hitchhiking: Narbonne-Coursan-Séte.
Séte is a small port developed around a hill.
Hitchhiking: Séte-Montpellier; here I hitchhike again at the north exit of the city to the highway (shopping malls and amusement park area): Montpellier-Nimes.
On my arrival in Nimes I found the city in full celebrations - the Feria; I did not know anything about this festivity before my arrival and I did not even know it was at this time of the year. Then I found out that this festival, the Feria, is celebrated twice a year - during the Pentecost and another time; for the whole time of the festival, the traditional dish is the spanish Paela.
I prefer to visit a city as it is during the most days of the year and not as it is during a festival because I think its view it's slightly altered, so I decide to go to Avignon and return to Nimes after few days when the festival will be over.
Hitchhiking: Nimes-Remoulins-Avignon.
The person who took me from Nimes to Remoulins told me that near Remoulins there is Pont Du Gard, the ruins of an enormous roman aqueduct. I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street near the Palais du Papes.

May 31st, 2009
After visiting for good Avignon I'm heading to Orange.
Hitchhiking: Avignon-Courtizon-Orange.
Orange is very small, and the town center is concentrated all around the ancient roman theater. Here in Orange I taste the typical sweet of the region: the calissounet.

Jun 01st, 2009
I hitchhike at the city exit to the highway: Orange-Nimes; I'm hitchhiking on the national road: Nimes-Marguerittes-Pont Du Gard.
I noticed that almost all drivers that picked me up have been able to give me information about what the food or wine in their local area is - the local wine in this region is Cote Du Rhone.
At Pont Du Gard, the best view of the roman aqueduct can be obtained from the top of the hills along the river.
I walk from Pont Du Gard to Remoulins - the shortest way goes through the countryside and on both sides of the road there are cherry and apricot trees.
Once in Remoulins I decided to taste the Cote Du Rhone and to do it I thought bars would be a good idea, so I went to some and asked if they had local wine and what was its name, just to make sure they were not making fool of me. To my surprise, many responded that they did not know the name of the local wine and others have tried to fool around, but without success, answering to my security question on the name "...we have country's wine;)" to which I just smiled and left the bar to seek the local wine elsewhere. In the end I found it in a restaurant where I also tasted the Galettes Provencale.
In conclusion, just to avoid being cheated by bars' and restaurants' owners is better to inform in advance about what local food and drinks are. Some restaurants have a license that does not allow the sale of only alcohol, but only combined with food.
Finished eating there's 9 o'clock in the evening and I decide to make an attempt to return to Nimes, so from Remoulins I try to hitchhike on the national road. After less than 5 minutes that I was hitchhiking a van stops to pick me up - the driver is a punk girl with two giant dogs. (I have always been afraid of punks but in the same time I wanted to understand them better.) She gets out of the van and asks me where I'm headed, and me, in less than a second I realise that this is my opportunity to better understand this type of people so I say Nimes and she moves the dogs from front to back of the truck, I get in and we leave. She was going to Toulouse on the national road because the highway was too expensive for her pockets. We talked a lot... she told me that most of them are friendly, gentle and modest, willing to help if you are in need. She also told me many useful things for a backpacker like me, for example where I can eat and bath for free in France - she told me things that would have helped me a lot if I knew them in advance: she said that in all quite large cities, it is possible to request at the Tourist Office a booklet called SOS Galere, a list of associations in the city that offer free aid services (food, hygiene, rest) to people in great difficulty. She was working in a circus, so I also asked her for some tips to learn juggling with balls faster. Finally, when we arrived in Nimes, to thank her for everything I offered her a cup of coffee.
When I was in Avignon I had seen a lot of punks, but I was always afraid to approach them to talk and I thought that sooner or later I would have found a way to get to know these people. Only few hours later I had the opportunity to meet one - it is amazing how destiny leads you to accomplish some of your true wishes if you let things happen: in my case, when the truck stopped and I saw that it was a punk as driver I could have said no but doing in such a way I would have pushed away this opportunity to better understand their lifestyle and I would have continued to have prejudices about them; once again, this situation demonstrated that it is very important not to close into yourself but let things happen - to be open to the world of heart and mind.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the street in Nimes near the city center.

Jun 02nd, 2009
The Feria is over, so now it's what Nimes looks like usually.
I'm hitch hiking: Nimes-Bellegarde-St. Gilles-Arles.
I visit Arles in the evening and decide to stay here for the night; the city, although small, does not seem very safe so I sleep near the police station in my sleeping bag.

Jun 03rd, 2009
I'm hitchhiking: Arles-Highway péage-Aix En Provence.
After visiting Aix En Provence I decide to go to St. Tropez, just to see if this city will be so special also for me as for others.
It's hard to find a driver to pick me up from Aix En Provence so after about an hour of trying at the entrance to the highway, I go on the national road but still nothing so in the end I decide to go away from Aix En Provence on foot, walking to the next small village and once there to try again to get a ride; Aix En Provence is not a large city, and in southern France I noticed that the average waiting time to get a free ride is 10-15 minutes, so not finding a driver to pick me up in one hour is very strange.
I walk from Aix En Provence to Le Canet (7 km). I hitchhike from Le Canet to Pourrieres. To thank the driver for the ride I offer him a drink in Pourrieres and he accepts. I taste the local wine (rosé) of Pourrieres. I walk from Sacaron to Pourcieux (5 km); I hitchhike: Pourcieux-St. Maximin La Ste Baume. As soon as I got here I discovered that this tiny village, St. Maximin La Ste Baume, is a very important place of pilgrimage for many Christians because in one of the three sarcophagus within the church's crypt scientists state that there's the body of Mary Magdalene, the woman that Jesus saved from the killing with stones as found guilty of prostitution and who stayed by His side for the rest of her life afterwards. I did not know of the existence of such a place of pilgrimage and is an honor for me that the road took me here allowing me to visit the crypt of the Basilica of St. Maximin La Ste Baume with the sarcophagus and the relic.
I taste bread made with local mediterranean fruit (fig).
I'm hitchhiking: St. Maximin La Ste Baume-Brignoles-Flassans Sur Issole.
The driver who took me from St. Maximin to Brignoles was a young man that hitchhiked in the past aswell and he told me that Aix En Provence is "the hitchhikers' hell" - I do not know why this city is such a rare "hitchhiking unfriendly" sample here in the south of France, a city where hitchhiking is so difficult not because of lack of favorable locations, but of lack of drivers with favorable mentality towards hitchhikers; I didn't like that much even the city, and if I knew these things prior to get there I guess I would have avoided it.
In Flassans Sur Issole, before finding a place to sleep, I go to a small pizzeria to buy french fries and as the owner saw that I am a traveler with little money he offers me a glass of peach juice (balance of karma?).
I sleep on the street in my sleeping bag in Flassans Issole Sur.

Jun 04th, 2009
At breakfast I offer two coffees to a man that looks poor.
Looking on the map to decide the best way to St. Tropez I come over a medieval abbey, Thoronet, and since medieval history is one of my passions I couldn't help to go and visit it.
I hitchhike: Flassans-Abbaye Du Thoronet; from Flassans I walk on the road for few kilometers but then I found an employee of the Forest Guard who took me directly to the abbey.
In the morning, around 1030 o'clock, the atmosphere inside the ancient Abbey of Thoronet, created by the penetrating sunlight, a total absence of other people and absolute silence, is magical.
At the abbey I met a boy from the countryside of Kyoto; together, we visited the Abbey of Thoronet and to me it had been an opportunity to increase my knowledge about the shoguns and about the actual Japanese culture; then, he had to get to Les Arcs by 5 o'clock in the afternoon to catch the train but he had no idea how to get there as soon as possible and had no experience in hitchhiking so I decided to help him and I suggested him to hitchhike with me.
We hitchhiked: Abbaye Du Thoronet-Thoronet-Le Cannet Des Maures-Les Arcs; we changed three drivers and we arrived at Les Arcs in about an hour - finally here, each of us has continued its own way.
I'm hitchhiking: Les Arcs-Les Valises-Ste. Maxime.
Arrived in Ste Maxime I take advantage of the beautiful beach and do a swim in the Mediterranean sea.
From Ste. Maxime to St. Tropez I went on foot (14 km).
I realize that St. Tropez is nothing special, apart from the prices that are higher than I've ever seen in my life.
I sleep on the street in my sleeping bag near the center of St. Tropez.

Jun 05th, 2009
In the early morning, a poor boy born in Paris but working in St. Tropez, wakes me up and invites me to his house to sleep and have a bath so I accept and at his place I have a great bath; I was expecting to happen to meet again somebody so kind after the boy of Limoux because I really needed to have a shower - it's been about a week since then; as thankfulness I give him a bottle of Fanta of 0.5 lt. He tells me that many rich people come to St. Tropez especially because this city is famous as "the paradise of drugs" - in fact, crossing the port in the late evening can be seen many yachts with people who party like crazy and it is not difficult to imagine that they may be also taking drugs.
From St. Tropez I decide to go to Ventimiglia through Cannes and Nice.
I'm hitchhiking: St. Tropez-Port Grimaud-Ste. Maxime-Cannes.
Most of the drivers I spoke with told me that in the south of France people as well as being very friendly are also very superficial.
In Cannes, for those who love cinematographic art, it's really wonderful the square in front of the Cinema Pallace because on the pavement there are various handprints of many actors and film directors. Here I met a german girl of about 25 years old that was hitchhiking aswell and she told me that she never had problems, contrary to the common thinking that for girls it's more risky.
I hitchhike: Cannes-Antibes-Villeneuve Loubet-Nice. One of the drivers who helped me to get to Nice was a poor man who was returning home from work - he had two little girls so to thank him for the ride I gave him a bottle of Coca-Cola of 0.5 lt for the girls, this way also taking the opportunity to balance my karma.
I visit the old city of Nice and I notice that the architecture of the historic buildings is similar to those of Grenoble.
I sleep in my sleeping bag on the beach of Nice - the moon and the black sea that hosts the projection of its light are gorgeous.

Jun 06th, 2009
I visit again the historic part of Nice and then I take the bus Nice-Monaco-Menton (1 euro each ride).
After visiting the small town of Menton I take the train to cross the old border Menton-Ventimiglia.
Here ends this adventure in France.

Conclusions
France is a multi-ethnic country, where racism and nationalism does not exist almost at all and where good education stands above all when it comes to relate to other people; french people are generally very willing to help without asking anything in return, friendly and handsome, very open in the south but at the same time superficial, colder in the north but once you get talking to them for a while then they are reliable when it comes to move to action. Concerning the persons who you may meet I think that this still depends on your karma. Concerning hitch hiking: in France there is a strong and solid culture of hitchhiking and I noticed that even on roads far from towns, people pick up hitchhikers; the average waiting times to find a free ride, I noticed that in the south is 10-15 minutes while in the north is 25-35 minutes; to my surprise, I noticed that people who picked me up during these 24 days were approximately 60% women or girls and about 40% men or boys. It is said that the truck drivers pick up hitchhikers - I have given them many opportunities but no truck driver has ever picked me up.
Food and drink: there are supermarkets such as Carrefour Discount or Carrefour Market where there are good quality products that cost very little.

By Claudius Adrian Dobre.

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